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Bathroom Tiles and Tiling
When installing tiles as bathroom flooring, it is critical that a proper underlay exists. The underlay is simply a layer beneath the tiles.
Typically, the underlay is a sub layer of plywood. Whilst the thickness of the plywood underlay depends upon the application, it is typically between ¾” and 1 ¼”. Personally, I prefer metric measurements, but the imperial units still take precedence with many people. In metric units, these measurements would be approximately 19.05mm and 31.75mm respectively. An existing layer of tiles or linoleum may also be used. If an existing layer of tiles were already in place, using it as the underlay for a new layer of tiles would make the refurbishing process far less time consuming. Tiles may also be installed directly over concrete. As long as the underlay is level and solid it will suffice.
Once established, be sure to clear the underlay surface of dust and debris prior to tile installation. In areas of differing floor heights or working surfaces that are not level throughout, there are levelling compounds available to manually correct them.
Preparation:
Before actually installing the tiles, lay them out over the underlay to see how the whole installation will look. Pay close attention to how the tiles run out toward the walls, in the corners and next to bathroom furniture and sanitaryware.
The purpose o the dry installation is to allow you to witness the overall appearance before being stuck with it, but more importantly, to allow you to see where the stub tiles are going to be. Stub tiles are the ones you are going to have to cut to make the tile installation fit within the room. It is best to keep stub tiles to the perimeter of the room or around sanitaryware such as toilets, or better still behind or underneath bathroom furniture.
Once you are satisfied with how the installation will look, the next step is to leave yourself a visual guide to work from. There many ways to do this, but a common method is to pencil draw a partial tile grid.
When lifting the dry installation leave the centre-most tile in place. Draw a straight line on the underlay along one of the edges of this tile and continue it to the wall. Do the same thing with the edge that is 90º to this one. You will be left with a large right angle on the underlay surface meeting each other at the corner of the centre-most tile.
Once these guidelines are in place re-lay some of the tiles along the perpendicular lines and observe if they lie in a way that limits cutting tiles and that they lie straight. Once you are satisfied, remove the tiles and prepare for the actual installation.
Actual Installation:
As before, make sure the area is free of dust and debris. Apply the ceramic adhesive or mastic to the underlay surface, starting in the centre where the two perpendicular pencil guidelines intersect. Apply enough material to cover the area you will get done before encountering any cutting or disturbances. The last thing you want is for the adhesive to harden leaving you with an uneven surface before the tiles are laid. Use 30 minutes as your nominal countdown so-to-speak. Read the adhesive material packaging as some adhesives are designed to harden even quicker.
When applying the mastic, first spread it with the flat end of the trowel. Lay it on relatively thick, approximately 1/8” to 3/16” thick (3.18mm to 4.76mm). Then turn the trowel around and run the notched edge over it. This creates ridges in the mastic that help to hold the tile down more securely. The larger the tile, the larger the notches should be. As a guide, a ¼” (6.35mm) notched trowel is suitable for 12” x 12” (304.8mm x 304.8mm) tiles.
Once the adhesive has been applied, install the tiles working from the centre outward. With larger tiles apply a thin coating of mastic to the back prior to laying it on the floor. This will help ensure a good bond.
As you near the walls or edges of bathroom furniture and sanitaryware, you will need to cut some of the tiles. A portable wet-saw is the best option for cutting tiles, as it will allow you to make very accurate cuts. You will also save money in wasting fewer tiles due to bad cuts or breakage. Wet-saws are not too expensive and once you see your finished product you will certainly want to install more tiles.
When applying tiles, you may want to use spacers. Spacers are available in various shapes and sizes and the size chosen depends on your personal preference. In bathroom flooring, it may be a good idea to keep spacing to a minimum to reduce water collection. Spacers will ensure uniformity throughout your tile layout.
Grouting:
After the tiles have been installed, allow them to sit for 24-48 hours before applying grout and/or walking on them. Grout is the hard resin, usually white, that lies between tiles. Whilst typically white, grout comes in many different colours and is very easy to install. Simply mix the grout with water or a special bonding agent and apply it with a rubber trowel. Remove the spacers as you apply the grout.
Once applied, immediately wipe excess grout off the tiles, using a wet sponge. Wait approximately 25-30 minutes and wipe the tiles of any residual grout again. Wait another hour and repeat. If any grout is left on the tile surface you will have a hard job getting it off without damaging the tiles. Other than that, within a day you will be able to stand back, or on your finished handiwork and admire it.
The Perfect Bath
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Testimonial
I've always meant to write to you for your A1 service when I ordered my Ella V&A bath from you last year. The bath was delivered in packaging that was robust and in perfect condition. What's more it was on time.
M.F. Surrey
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